YOUR NEW HOME

BUYING A HOME IS A MAJOR EVENT.
THE MORE YOU KNOW,
THE SMOOTHER IT GOES!

Welcome! My name is John Polgreen from JPG Home Evaluation Services.

This has not been designed as a typical website, but as a web log (blog) so that it can serve as an educational tool that can be changed and republished instantly.

The idea is not only to help educate you before you buy a home, but to help answer questions and concerns that develop after you move in.

Conditions in and around your home will constantly change! Quick inspections every year can help prevent system failures and improve exterior conditions that can lead to health concerns such as mold. So when you schedule your yearly physical, set one up for your home as well to keep you both healthy!

LET'S GET STARTED!

WHAT TO EXPECT FROM AN INSPECTION

A home inspection is a very important piece of the buying process. The intent is to help determine the overall condition of the house and provide you with a timeline as to the amount and extent of repairs that all houses eventually need. The important aspect will be any major repairs that are needed immediately and may affect your ability or desire to even purchase the house. You have to keep in mind that a home inspection is a non intrusive (we can't move furniture, ceiling tiles, etc.), visual evaluation of the home only at the time of the inspection. You should plan on having other inspections done by specialists if concerns arise about any system.

THE ROOF AND ATTIC STRUCTURE can be a major expense and should be evaluated at length. If possible the roof should be walked on and the attic should be entered (even an attic with no stairs leading into it). Moisture problems can not only cause serious roof damage, but can contribute to mold formations that have become a real health concern.
EXTERIOR GRADING AND WATER DRAINAGE SYSTEMS are again extremely important in keeping water away from the house. Not only does water do damage to the structure itself, but the moist conditions are very inviting to wood destroying insects (termites, carpenter ants, etc.). With mold becoming such an issue these days, a considerable amount of time needs to be spent outside to determine any conditions that may be directing water towards the house. Even if standing water isn't noted in the basement, just moisture and typical building materials can cause a mold condition to develop so should be fully evaluated.
SIDING,DOORS,WINDOWS,WALKS,AND WALLS. If it's visible, it should be checked. Older houses may have layers of lead paint. If a lot of peeling paint is noted you may want to have it tested for lead. A main cause of children ingesting lead appears to be from contaminated soil (where the peeling paint has fallen) that gets tracked into the house.
INTERIOR SYSTEMS:
STRUCTURE AND WATER CONCERNS are a main focus of a home inspection. As we mentioned during the exterior inspection, the problems caused by water are many. Water building up against the foundation (the area below the ground, usually stone or concrete, that carries the weight of the wooden structure above it) can deteriorate and actually move the walls in extreme conditions. Any part of the wooden structure that is in contact with the ground can also be damaged and should be fully evaluated. The moisture can also attract wood destroying insects (termites, carpenter ants, etc.) that can do considerable damage if left untreated. And then there's mold. It's also a wood destroying organism created to break down dead organic matter like trees and leaves. Unfortunately your house is filled with dead organic matter. Let's keep the water away from your house as best as possible and we'll all be better off!
The sizing and placement of structural members should also be evaluated as it may relate to any floor or wall movement noted during the interior room inspection.
HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING systems will be evaluated depending on the season. The inspector should spend time with you describing how the system works, it's age and condition, and any upgrades that would be beneficial to install. In the overall scope of a home, the heating system is relatively inexpensive. Hidden costs for replacement can arise in older systems if asbestos type insulation was used to cover the unit or the heat pipes. If asbestos appears to be present it may be advisable to have an abatement company supply you with an estimate for removal.
Another hidden and potentially costly item would be a buried oil tank. Even if the current system is not running on oil, a previous one may have. This should be looked into very carefully. The inspector should look for any signs of a tank and consult with the owner if possible. The town should also have records of buried tanks (with any luck) so you should also check with them.
PLUMBING AND WASTE pipes should be evaluated for age and condition wherever they are visible. Older pipes can be costly to replace if they are behind finished walls and floors. The main waste pipe out to the street (or private septic system) can be checked from the inside by a plumber with a camera. The older the house is, the more important this inspection may be.
Private systems (wells and septic) can be tested at the inspection but again may need another company to fully evaluate them because for the most part are not visible.
ELECTRIC systems are again mostly concealed but can be checked with todays testing equipment. The panel box should be opened (this is the only intrusive aspect of an inspection that we deceided was so important that we should make an exception to the rule) and checked for damaged wiring, correct breaker size, and overall condition, material, and ages of the wiring. Many safety products have been developed in recent years that the inspector should also discuss.
BATHROOMS will be inspected for loose tiles,water pressure, leaking fixtures, and proper placement of electrical fixtures and safety outlets (G.F.C.I.'s).
INTERIOR ROOMS will be checked for proper heat, electric, window operation, and any floor settlement or movement. The ceilings should also be fully evaluated for any signs of moisture either from bathrooms ao the roof above.
FIREPLACES will be inspected from above and below if possible but this is another area that would be advisable to have a specialist come in and run a camera inside the flue to really determine it's condition.
THE KITCHEN will have all of the appliances,floors,and cabinets checked along with the electrical safety outlets as in the bathroom.

Don't forget THERE ARE NO STUPID QUESTIONS! We've been doing this for a long time and things that are very obvious to us, may not be to you. MAKE SURE YOUR INSPECTOR WILL TAKE AS MUCH TIME AS IT TAKES TO ANSWER ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS!

It's also very important to try and schedule your inspector to be at the final walkthrough before closing. It provides the opportunity to check appliances, any electric outlets that were covered by furniture and generally go over the issues brought up at the original inspection.

WHILE YOU'RE SHOPPING

Your real estate agent has spent time with you to determine where you would like to live, the size of the house you would like to live in, and if you can afford it!
As you begin to visit homes that fit your criterias, you can also do some "home inspecting " yourselves. Again: The more you know, the smoother it goes!
We will start from the top of the house and work down, covering some basic items that can be very costly. When I bought my first house, the cost of the home inspection cut into my down payment money. A new roof would have been out of the question! Even a second inspection would have cut it close.
I'm not trying to make you a home inspector through this site (I still need a job!) but hopefully this can help you ask more and better questions before you need me.
This brings me to a very important question: How do you find a good home inspector? And what makes a good inspection?
Talk to friends and family and find out if they have had a good experience with an inspector.
Take some names from you real estate agent.
Check the state department of licencing for inspectors in your area.
Call them!
My approach has always been to stay at the house until all of your questions are answered. We will look at every visible system and I will explain what I'm looking for and why. Everything that gets printed in the report will be discussed at the inspection (no surprises when the report arrives). And we can also have a good time! You can bring any family member that knows something about houses (or not) because I believe the more eyes the better. If my approach doesn't appeal to you, there are many other inspectors out there and I know one will have a style that suits you.

THE ROOF OVER YOUR HEAD

Of all the surprises at a home inspection, needing a new roof seems to catch the most people off guard. It can be hard to see, and most homeowners don't pay attention to it until it leaks.
The surface that you see from the ground is the roof covering. It comes in many materials with the most common being asphalt shingle. These can last anywhere from 15 to 40 years depending on the type. The most common of these are the standard three tab shingle that lays very flat, and an architectural grade that are layered to give the appearance of slate. The more expensive (and longer lasting) architectural grade are difficult to analyze from the ground but the three tab can show their age as the photo shows. Curling, cracking, and very dark areas (where the surface granules have worn off) will all indicate an older roof.
Slate and wood shingle roofs will need an expert to judge, but they also need periodic maintenance so the homeowner may be able to put you in touch with the person that takes care of the roof.
The costly part of the roof is under the covering, the roof deck. It can be large pieces of plywood (4'X8' sheets), planks, or as in the case of a wood shingle roof, nothing at all. If you are in the attic, look at the roof. If it's very discolored (mildewed), or you can see the backs of the wood shingles, this can indicate a more costly job either now or in the future depending on the condition of the top of the roof material.

THE LAY OF THE LAND

As long as water continues to run downhill, exterior grading (the slope of the land and anything next to the house-ie.patios, sidewalks, driveways) will be the most important aspect of keeping your basement dry and usable.
When a house is built, a big hole is dug into the ground, the house is constructed, and the soil is replaced. Because it needs to be higher near the house so that water drains away from the foundation, the builder allows for the extra soil height and all is well. Unfortunately after the builder leaves the soil still settles, and in a few years is actually lower near the house than out in the yard eight feet away. Rain and melting snow are now directed towards the low areas (near the house) and the water may enter the basement. The same can be true for patios, walkways, driveways, anything near the house.
When everyone else is looking at the back yard and envisioning where the swingset will go, look to see if there are any noticible low areas near the house. When you go the basement look in these same areas for a sump pump or water stains. Water marks can also show up as discoloration on the bottoms of doors and interior walls. You don't need to see standing water to have water concerns, especially with todays mold issues.
Water in basements can be remedied but it can be costly.

THE BELLY OF THE BEAST

O.K. now we're inside. Go directly to the basement. See the kitchen later! You're a home inspector now!
Don't worry about the structure. That's why you'll always need us. Unless you get seasick walking from room to room (uneven floors), anything structural will probably be out of your eyesight.
What you can see is the heating system.
Like looking at a car, corrosion and worn paint can give you an idea of it's age (but not always it's condition). Replacing the furnace (blows hot air) or boiler (circulates hot water or steam) is not a major expense especially considering the money you can save on fuel. The newer units are much more efficient.
Two things that you can look for are asbestos wrapping on the pipes (looks like corregated cardboard as in the photo) and the presence of a buried oil tank. Asbestos should be removed or covered over as it is still a safety concern. It's best to do it when the house is empty so that the cleanup can include the floors where old pieces of insulation may have fallen.

If the house is heated with oil (as opposed to gas) you want to know where the tank is. WHERE'S THE TANK! If a previous sytem was oil fired,WHERE WAS THE TANK! If it was buried outside, WHERE IS IT NOW! Don't be the one caught with an abandoned, leaking oil tank. If there's one in the ground now, have it tested. If there was one in the ground for an older system, make sure there is paperwork that says it was removed or properly abandoned. Very important!!!Ask the owner or listing agent. Even if you see a tank in the basement or the system is gas fired now, there could be an older tank still buried outside. The sooner you know, the better. Of all the things that can slow down a sale, I think an abandoned oil tank may be the worst.